Originally Published February 15, 2013  With the increase of designers and manufacturers getting in on green 
fashion, it may be slightly more confusing than not to shop for organic or sustainable clothing. ‘Buyer Beware’ is the first form of business. Popular terminology that may normally describe organic or sustainable clothing is sometimes used in loose terms as marketing strategies to lure consumers into thinking they are making a green purchase. Words like organic, sustainable, natural and green have different shades of meaning that can greatly affect the choice in eco-friendly fashion. Armed with a little background information, your green purchase choices can evolve a little easier.
Definitions
Natural: Defined as existing in nature or pertaining to nature or the universe, the term ‘Natural’ is surrounded by the most ambiguity. Both Organic and Sustainable fibers can be considered natural and some more environmentally friendly than others. It is important to note; no US government standards or criteria for certifying a product as ‘Natural’ exist, but the FDA references the term as coming from plant or animal. However in most cases the raw material has to be processed by some kind of chemical reaction in order to derive a substance that can be used. The trick is to find manufactures that use a ‘closed-loop’ system that captures and reuses these chemicals, keeping them out of the environment. Many manufactures are compliant with high environmental standards for production and carry certifications for renewable growing and harvesting. Natural Fibers include;
- Lyocell (goes under the trade name TENCEL®) is produced with wood pulp cellulose from various hardwoods with the Eucalyptus Tree providing the greatest yield per acre and best fiber. It falls under the category Natural as well as Sustainable, being harvested from certified pesticide-free, sustainable, tree farms.
- Modal produced from natural wood chip cellulose from the Beech Tree, which is able to regenerate itself, is cultivated without chemicals or pesticides and requires minimal irrigation.
Sustainable:Â Referring to something that can maintain its own viability in a short amount of time allowing for its continual use, sustainable resources to create fibers for clothing is becoming very popular. These include;
- Bamboo, probably the best know sustainable fiber, maintains its own viability in a very short amount of time. It can flourish without the use of herbicides or pesticides.
- Hemp is probably the most controversial of the sustainable fibers is a quick growing robust plant that grows in diverse soil conditions. Hemp production is not allowed in the US but importation of raw materials is allowed.
Organic:Â Organic pertains to something that is derived from living organisms. Organic products are produced without the use of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. Production may include the use of fertilizers or pesticides that are plant or animal in origin. Organic Fibers include;
- Organic Cotton - In the US, the process of certifying a product as organic assures that product has met strict federal standards as established by the National Organic Program (NOP).
- Organic Wool must adhere to NOP standards that include the way the livestock is handled – use of certified organic feeds, use of good management practices to maintain livestock health and adherence to the natural carrying capacity of grazing lands.
Many of these fibers fit into more than one category. As an example, Bamboo can be both sustainable and organically grown. Or Lyocell which is natural but is also considered to be from sustainable resources.
Labeling
There are as many labels out there as are countries and companies coming up with ‘standards’ for their natural or organic products. As with other green products, it is important to read labels for materials and processes used, know your manufacturers and whether they operate under green standards, and look up any symbols stating certain certifications that are unfamiliar to you. Following are some of the labels for green clothing.
USDA Certified:Â USDA Operations that produce and process organic agricultural products must be certified by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)-accredited certifying agents in order to carry the USDA Organic label. Certification is based on federal standards as established by the National Organic Program. These standards include criteria for quality, production, growing, storing, packaging and shipping that disallow use of synthetic or chemical pesticides, fertilizers, hormones, or genetic engineering. A good piece of information to know is there are shades of differences in the labeling of Organic products:
- Certified 100% Organic product label means that product’s ingredients and production methods are in whole certified organic. These products are also allowed to use the USDA Seal on labeling and advertising.
- Organic label refers to products that have at least 95% organic ingredients, with the remaining 5% another type of fiber other than the type of fiber in the organic portion.
- Made with Organic Ingredients is the label category for products that contain a between 70% – 95% organic ingredients with restrictions on what the remaining fiber can be.
Global Organic Textile Standard:Â USDA Organic certified natural fibers meeting additional requirements carry the Global Organic Textile Standard label. Criteria relates to social and environmental responsibilities, like worker/consumer safety and chemical residue testing, through finished product.
Organic Exchange (currently known as Organic Textile Exchange):Â Organic Exchange, now known as the Organic Textile Exchange, relates only to cotton and has two standards.
- OE 100 standard labelOE 100 allows a minimum of 95% organic fiber, but the remaining 5% cannot be cotton.
- OE Blended requires at least 5% organic cotton content and allows the remaining fiber to be any fiber, including conventional cotton.
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and Oeko-Standard 1000:Â The International Association for 
the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles is a set of international testing criteria for the human ecological attributes of textiles from raw materials to finished product. Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is the first step in the process and Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 poses additional criteria covering environmentally damaging chemical and dye use, noise pollution, waste water and exhaust controls, energy use and child labor practices.Â
bluesign® standard: The bluedesign® standard is used in several countries around the 
globe and aims at the entire textile manufacturing chain reducing the ecological footprint through responsible manufacturing processes.
Membership
It is also advantageous to know who the manufacturers of the clothing piece are. Again, there are many certifications that may apply and a little research will explain the criteria that apply. In the US and Canada, the following are most often seen;
Organic Trade Association:Â The Organic Trade Association (OTA) is an association in 
North America for the organic industry. They protect organic trade in support of the farmers and producers, the public, the environment, and the economy.
National Green Pages™ Seal of Approval: Green America is a directory of US businesses who have passed the screening criteria for “commitment to social justice and 
environmental sustainabilityâ€.
Conclusion
Organic and sustainable fibers are better for your health and the health of our environment. Many claims are made as to these properties in clothing for men, women, and children that may or may not be accurate. Armed with a little knowledge about the terminology, labeling requirements and manufacturing policies associated with a product, you will be heading in the right direction for purchasing truly green fashions.
